Granted, I live 3 kilometres outside the Munich city boundary. But because a few years a ago an initiative failed to grant Munich weisswurst a protected geographic status anyone can legally name their weisswurst “Munich”.
I have always wanted to make proper weisswurst myself. And despite the lack of an offical definition I will keep to the procedure outlined in the failed application (PDF file in German) because Munich butchers stick to it anyway.
Munich weisswurst requires:
- At least 51% of muscular tissue must be veal.
- Total fat content must 30% maximum.
- Must include 5% to 10% boiled “skin works” (calf head meat or skin or calf connective tissue or young pig skin).
- Must use regular salt, parsley and onion.
- Meat, fat and seasonings must be finely chopped in a cutting machine before ground skins are added.
- Must use natural pig casings.
- 600 g lean veal shoulder
- 250 g raw pork fat
- 80 g pork belly skin
- 200 g fresh snow from outside (finely crushed ice is used normally)
- 20 g salt
- 10 g flat leaf parsley
- 1 small onion
- Grated zest of 1 small lemon
- 1 g mace
- 1 g ground coriander
- A few turns from the peppermill
- “Meat cutting aid without reddening” (diphosphate E450 to help with the meat emulsion)
- Natural pig intestine casings, 30/32 mm
The amounts for meat and fat are not set in stone. It is perfectly possible to vary them and also to (partly) replace veal with pork. Obviously this will change the character of the sausage but it will still be a weisswurst.
First of all, the casing which usually comes stored in salt is soaked in tepid water while the sausage paste is being prepared:
The chopped parsley, a coarse chop is sufficient:
The meat, fat and the onion are cut into chunks and put into the freezer for a while so it will become thoroughly cold but not frozen:
The temperature should remain at single digits as long as possible. The remaining snow is added in batches. For a stable emulsion the temperature should then rise to 14 degrees during chopping, but not beyond. Right at the end, parsley and ground skin are quickly blended in:
Oops, there is a knot in the casing:
The casing up to the knot was only sufficient for about 2 thirds of my meat, so I was forced to do it in two batches. I could not avoid some air bubbles, but this is only an issue of appearance. The stuffing attachment of my meat grinder (which in itself is an attachment of a Bosch food processor) is not really a perfect tool. A dedicated sausage stuffer has been added to my shopping list.
I was quite happy with the result. I had tried to make it before but failed because my meat chopper was not powerful enough before I got the Magimix.
The texture was a bit too firm. Maybe I should use more skin next time because this ingredient takes care of the fluffiness that makes a good weisswurst even better. I also noticed that the ground skin became very firm when cooling down again, so it may not have been blended in uniformly. The seasoning was ok but could have been a bit stronger. I’ve had better for sure, but I’ve also had worse.
Update: I recevied a message that in addition to using more skins cooking them longer (20 min) might help to increase the fluffiness. Also more ice could be used.