The very first recipe on this blog was for Leberkäse. Shortly afterwards I made Weisswurst. Here is something that in a way is a cross between the two. Kalbskäse is very much like Leberkäse, but it is made with veal and pork just like Weisswurst and it does not use nitrite, so it is not pink.
The ratio of pork and veal can vary just like with Weisswurst, and pork fat is used for the emulsion. If you don’t bake the paste but stuff it into a casing and poach it you will get Gelbwurst.
This was an excercise in two things: Firstly I wanted to find out how to work with larger amounts of meat than the 1.4 kg the Magimix 5100 I use for emulsified sausage can take. I made about 3 kg so I did id in two batches. And then I wanted to get acquainted with large diameter articifial casings that are commonly used for “Aufschnitt” (cold cut) type German sausages.
Ingredients per kg meat base:
- 320 g lean pork
- 280 g lean veal
- 300 g raw pork fat
- 200 g water or crushed ice
- 22 g table salt
- 1 small onion
- 3 g white pepper, ground
- 0.5 g mace
- 0.5 g nutmeg
- 0.5 g allspice
- 4 g diphosphate (E450)
- Plastic casings 9/50 cm
Classically lemon zest is also used for seasoning but this would have made it too close to Weisswurst for my taste, but you can of course add it as well.
- Meat grinder with 2 mm plate
- Bowl cutter or food processor with rotary blade
- Sausage stuffer (for Gelbwurst)
- Meat thermometer
Here is a handy tip if you don’t have crushed ice at hand or are too lazy to make it yourself with ice cubes and a mallet: Dissolve the salt in the amount of water you need and put it into the freezer at least 2 hours before you need it. This way you will get water below freezing temperature, if you freeze it long enough it will even turn into slush but will probably not freeze completely.
For Gelbwurst soak the casing in water for 20 minutes or more. For Kalbskäse preheat the oven to 170 degrees.
Cut meat, fat and onion into chunks and grind with the 2 mm plate. Mix well and put into the freezer for 30 minutes. Then fill it into the bowl cutter or food processor along with spices and a third of the ice or ice water.
Cut in three stages until you get a smooth paste, each time adding another third of the ice. Check that the tempeature of the paste is below 10 degrees as long as possible. At the end cut until the temperature reaches 14 degrees.
For Gelbwurst fill your sausage stuffer and stuff into the plastic casing, tie off the end. Poach at 70 to 80 degrees for 90 minutes. For Kalbskäse bake in a mould to an internal temperature of 70 degrees.
The plastic sausage casing is 50 cm long. I don’t have a pot of this size, so I could have made two smaller sausages. But the additional tying means you have less casing left for stuffing. So I decided to stuff slighly less tightly and bending the casing for poaching. After cooling down I wanted to cut the sausage into several peaces anyway for freezing so I did not bother about the strange look.
Don’t bother if there are small air bubbles in the sausage. It is very difficult to eliminate them completely, and many commercial products have them too.