Sauce hollandaise is one of the finest things you can make with butter. Butter is a solid animal fat, as is lard. This means you can exchange butter with lard for a meaty variant. And just in case someone is worried about the high satureted fat content of lard: lard has actually less of it than butter (~30% vs. ~50%).
You can buy lard for frying in the supermarket. But this is bland and boring stuff. Just as we want the best possible butter for our hollandaise, we want the best possible lard that actually tastes of something. So we need to make our own. I recently posted a recipe for lard with scratchings that can be used. There is no place for the scratchings in our sauce, though. So it is advisable to cut the pork fat into bigger cubes so they can be removed more easily. If done properly, they will contain almost no fat anymore, and with a bit of salt they are the perfect snack to go with a beer.
When I made the lard for this sauce I turned up the heat at the end of the cooking to get a little bit of browing in the lard. This is more or less the equivalent of brown butter. But be careful not to heat the fat too high or it will begin to smoke.
The recipe for the porkonnaise is a straghtfoward adaption of the classic sauce hollandaise.
Ingredients: (4 servings):
- 250 g homemade lard, well chilled
- 4 egg yolks
- 100 ml white wine
- 1 small shallot, chopped
- 1 dash of lemon juice
- Salt and white pepper
- Preparation: 5 minutes
- Cooking time: 40 minutes
In a small saucepan heat the wine with the shallot and let simmer on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes until the liquid has reduced by 80%. Strain and reserve the liquid.
In a bain-marie over low heat whisk together the egg yolks and the wine reduction until the mixture begins to become creamy. Remove the whisking bowl from the bain-marie and whisk in the lard in small portions. Heat it up again shortly whenever the lard takes longer to melt and then remove again. This prevents the curdling of the egg by overheating.
Season the sauce with salt, while pepper and a bit of lemon juice. The sauce can be kept warm in the bain-marie as long as the water is not boiling.
This sauce can be used a replacement for a hollandaise wherever you fancy. I had it with broccoli for lunch which gave it an interesting meaty twist. I can well imagine that it will taste outstanding on Eggs Benedict.