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Wine

Pork Hock With Chocolate Sauce

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About 20 years ago during a short stay in Paris I went to the famous Table d'Anvers restaurant. The menu featured a very strange dish that caught my attention: veal head with chocolate sauce. I have always wanted to make something similar, so here is a creation using pork hock.

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Because I was so delighted by the flavour combination of rosemary and orange zest in the vetricina teramana I made recently I thought I might give this a try in a proper meal. It turns out that it works well.

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Earlier this year I made cholent, a traditional Jewish dish that is braised overnight to avoid kitchen work on shabbat. Now low-temperature braised beef is a wonderful thing, and so I decided to take this concept and use it for a more generic approach that does require some work the next day.

Chicken With Morel Mushrooms And Vin Jaune

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This is a classic dish from Jura region in France. It is quite simple to make but the ingredients will set you back quite a bit, especially if you decide to use a Bresse chicken for complete Jurassic authenticity. The combination of vin jaune and morels is simply divine and there is no need whatsoever to become creative and try to "improve" this creation.

Goose Rillettes “Pure Oie”

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In January I made pork rillettes which turned out very nice. Here is my take on goose rillettes. In principle the preparation is very much the same, but the fact that an entire bird is used makes the procedure and the logistics a bit more difficult.

Sour Tripe

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Some people say it's dog food, others love it. Tripe is a typical poor man's food of the past, but in Germany is has become almost forgotten, except in Swabia. My mother was born near Stuttgart, and in her youth she learnt to prepare all the traditional Swabian dishes. This is how she cooks tripe.

Porkonnaise – Sauce Hollandaise From Lard

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Sauce Hollandaise is one of the finest things you can make with butter. Butter is a solid animal fat, as is lard. This means you can exchange butter with lard for a meaty variant. And just in case someone is worried about the high satureted fat content of lard: lard has actually less of it than butter (~30% vs. ~50%).

Morel Mushroom Hollandaise For Asparagus

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Every once in a while I am in for a bit of indulgence. Since it is both asparagus and morel mushroom season I went for a combination of the two which is absolutely delicious. For the sauce hollandaise I use the virtually foolproof method of whisking in cold butter instead of the traditional liquid clarified butter.

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If you love French charcuterie as much as I do, you might want to give this a try. The recipe is fairly easy, and the result is delicious.

Overnight Pork Rillettes

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Rillettes belong to the great classics of French charcuterie. Essentially it is just meat that has been simmered until it is falling apart. In principle rillettes can be made from all kinds of meat. But the traditional varieties are made from pork (Rillettes du Mans) and duck or goose. There is even fish rillettes, but this has nothing to do with the original concept anymore.